The coast rewards a slow terrace more than a third identikit beach club. Pick water or the path. Then eat.
Stay in one cliff town
Positano for the stack of houses. Amalfi for the harbour. Hotel-hopping along the SS163 wastes the trip.
Boat or Path of the Gods
Boats for coves and Capri. The 7 km trail for the cliff from above. Water, hat, early start. Not the same day.
Ravello gardens
Villa Cimbrone and Rufolo. A higher, quieter Amalfi. Useful when Positano feels finished at noon.
Capri if the sea is calm
Blue Grotto is famous and fiddly. The island is still worth a boat even if the grotto is closed.
Lemon, seafood, no photo menu
Walk away from the first pier restaurant. The rule is the same as Rome.
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