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Ari is simple until the only whale-shark boat is full and your seaplane is tomorrow. Pad the stay.

Wildlife rules

3 metres. No touching. No blocking. The video is not worth a fine or an injured animal.

Two mornings

Weather and empty water happen. A single dawn raid from Malé is how people go home disappointed.

Seaplanes

Sunrise to about 5:30pm. Late international arrivals need a Malé or Hulhumalé room.

Local-island rules

Dhigurah is still a Muslim island. Bikini beach or modest dress. Same as Maafushi, quieter streets.

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