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Seville is two monuments and a night. Do not stack a Córdoba day trip on the same morning as the Alcázar.

Climb the Giralda

The cathedral is vast; the tower is the view. Ramps, not stairs, for most of the climb. Columbus’s tomb is inside. Go at opening in summer.

Walk the Real Alcázar

Moorish courtyards, Renaissance halls, and gardens. Timed tickets. This is Seville’s Alhambra-scale palace — give it two hours, not forty minutes between trains.

Lose an hour in Santa Cruz

Whitewashed lanes, orange trees, and tapas. It is a neighbourhood, not a queue. Early morning or evening; midday in August is a furnace.

Flamenco in Triana

A small tablao, not a stadium. Cross the river. Eat on the same side. This is the evening that makes two nights better than one.

Plaza de España and the river

The 1929 semicircle is a photograph. The Guadalquivir walk is the cooler hour. Neither replaces the Alcázar.

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